How to build a 2 meter antenna25.11.2020
DIY 5$ Portable VHF Yagi Antenna for the 2 Meter Band (144-146 MHz) by F4HWK
So being one who likes to build antennas, here is what I came up with. The Image below shows the materials you will need to build a 2 meter 1/4 wave vertical antenna for the mHz. amateur radio band. Here is the list of parts needed to build a 2 meter vertical antenna: 3/4? PVC pipe Ц Length to suit. 3/4? adapter 8xMPT. Here are the plans to build a 2 meter J-pole antenna: The above dimensions for the J-pole are in inches. Measurements on overall length, and stub length are from the centerline of the separation pipe (horizontal) to the top of the antenna. The Connect at measurement is 2 1/4 inches from the top of the horizontal member to the point of connection.
If you are looking for an inexpensive, and easy to construct antenna, the J-pole antenna is a great one! The j-pole ot will yield slightly less than 3 DB of gain omnidirectionally. Here are what does prosperous mean in the bible plans to build a meger meter J-pole antenna:. The above dimensions for the J-pole are in inches. Measurements on keter length, and stub length are from the centerline of the separation pipe horizontal to the top of the antenna.
This will de-couple the feedline from the j-pole antenna, and help provide some lightning anteenna. Connect the center conductor of the coax to the main element, and the shield to the tuning stub of the j-pole. In all of the above dimensions, they are to be considered starting points for constructing a j-pole. I temporarily attach the coax using 1 inch hose clamps, and adjust the coax connection first to the lowest SWR.
From there, I adjust the length of the main element of the J-pole. Then I start over by re-adjusting the coax connection.
Here are the plans to build a 2 meter J-pole antenna: The above dimensions for the J-pole are in inches. Pages: Page 1 Page 2.
Don Murray W9VE Building a Dual-Band Antenna Mentorfest 10/23/04 10 Required Tools Ц Electric drill or drill press Ц 1/2Ф Metal-cutting bit Ц 3/8Ф Metal-cutting bit Х Vise Х Hacksaw Х Screwdriver Х SWR meter good at / MHz Х Dual-PL coax patch cable Х Feedline to your shack with PL at antenna File Size: KB. Mar 27, †Ј 2 Meter Halo Antenna - 15 part video series by N6TWW. By. DXZone. -. Mar 27, This is a series of 15 videos by N6TWW, listed on our Youtube Channel, demonstrating how to build a Halo Antenna for the MHz. Halo Antennas are Omni directional horizontally polarized antenna made in a circular shape. DIY 5$ Portable VHF Yagi Antenna for the 2 Meter Band ( MHz) by F4HWK: In this publication i explain how to build a very light weight, cheap, easy to build and deployable in 30 seconds portable VHF antenna for the 2 meter band. Here i present all steps to build this antenna. Measurement results for the S11 (or SWR) are.
I decided it was time to set up a 2 Meter base station. Being the crafty maker type, I wanted to build my own antenna. I settled on a 2 meter vertical dipole. I proceeded to make a very heavy dipole from copper pipe, akin to the type used for J-poles. It was incredibly heavy and very quickly became a sagging and corroded eyesore on the corner of my house. I decided to go back to the drawing board and starting from scratch, designed an entirely new, much lighter, 2 meter vertical dipole.
Everything to make this antenna should be available at your local hardware store with the exception of the feedline and any RF connectors. You may have a lot of it laying around the shack already. I encourage you to experiment and make this design your own. Also at this point, loosen the terminal lugs and flip the heads around This allows the steel rods to go all the way through the lug instead of bottoming out and places them toward the outside of the pipe tee instead of toward the inside.
Then, coming back an extra half inch or so and drill a hole the size of your chosen feedline into the pipe. Test wrap about wraps of your feedline around the pipe starting at the hole, then mark for a second hole along the same line as the first and drill one there. This will be for your air choke. Once wrapped, we can wrap the choke tightly with electrical tape to help hold it in place.
Depending on how weatherproof you want this, you may opt to cover it in some type of liquid electrical tape as well. Before you get to wrapping the coil, however, we need to push a few inches of feedline through the hole closest to the end of the pipe, and prepare the shield and center conductor for ring terminals.
Leave enough insulation off to reach both bolts on the tee. Crimp a ring terminal on the center conductor and one on the shielding. At this point I soldered the ring terminals in place for added strength, and covered them in heat shrink tubing with only the ring exposed. This is all optional. Take the nuts off of the bolts on the terminal lugs, push on the ring terminals, and replace the nuts.
Tighten them down really good until the nuts start to pull into the PVC. You may opt for washers on the outside of the tee.
Wrap wraps and push the feedline in the second hole and out the long end of the pipe. Of the pipe, for your RF Connection. Throughout the rest of this process make sure the center conductor is attatched to the element sticking up and the sheilding to the counterpoise sticking down. I used a dremel tool with grinding wheel for this but you may have a better option available. This runs between 19 and 20 inches. Because we are using an inch or so of the feedline as part of the radiating element inside the tee I simply cut mine down to 19 inches.
Do this with a dremel tool, or a file, or other tool of your choice. The steel is a lot harder than it looks! Run a steel rod into each of the terminal lugs and out the other side a half inch or so then tighten the lugs. Make sure all your pipe is together tight and at this point if you want to use pipe glue, do it.
I opted just to use hot glue at all the seams once my antenna was completed. Cut your feedline down so only 3 or 4 inches are coming out of the antenna and put on your RF connector of choice find a temporary stand for your antenna. I used the base and stand of an old house fan. I tried to center around MHz. Adjust the two steel rods in or out to change SWR until you have a good match.
Once matched, tighten down the terminal lug screws, and run a wire tie around the side of the tee and the stub of the steel rod sticking out the bottom of the lug.
This just removes possible stress on the lug itself if it gets pushed toward the feedline end of the antenna. Seal all seams with hot glue, then mount in your permanent location. This is the last little bit of quick and dirty waterproofing. Now use a few wire ties to tie the incoming feedling to the main mast.
Hook to your base station or HT and enjoy! Otherwise you could use something to seal the exposed metal parts. I installed this in an old dish mount on the corner of my house at about 15 feet and it bought me about 25 miles extra distance over my rubber duck antennas.
Will has a Bachelors Degree in Graphic Design, and occasionally freelances. Other interests include Science Fiction novels, and Video Games. View all posts by Will. That sure is a pretty good-looking antenna.. I like the way you use them Lugz.. I might try to build that.. Good article and great photography! How well does it perform compared to whatever else in the 2m category you have? Is steel a good enough conductor or did you try aluminum or copper rod? Thanks, Wayne k4wk. Compared to my old antenna, a much heavier but similar design, it does roughly the same.
I have tried no other elements on this one, but if I were to change them out, I might try to find aluminum for weight and durability. And how did you take such great pictures? There are no shadows and no glare from a flash. Did you use several flashes? Honestly, I just took these photos all with my phone. Some were in my shack and some were outside. I just framed them well, chose the best ones, and edited a few of them in Photoshop to brighten them up a bit.
Nothing special. I agree with other comments. Quite possibly. The way I built it, it will be easy to get to any part of the design and make changes.
I used what I had available, but can do more detailed ordering if I need to change parts out. Time will tell. Skip to content. Share this: Facebook Twitter Reddit. No problem, if you build it post pictures somewhere so I can see!